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Christoph Hainz

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Christoph Hainz
Hainz in October 2024
Personal information
NationalityItalian
Born (1962-07-23) 23 July 1962 (age 62)
Mühlbach, South Tyrol, Italy
WebsiteOfficial website
Climbing career
Known forFree solo ascent of Eiger North face via Heckmair-Route in 4.5 hours
First ascents
  • Shivling North pillar with Hans Kammerlander (VII/WI4)
  • "Mutschlechner - Grossrubatscher–Gedächtnisweg" Kreuzkofel (IX-)
  • "Geierwally" Geierwand/Höhlensteintal (VIII)
  • "Hexenbeisser" Hoher Zwölfer, Sextener (VIII A2)
  • "Ride with the camel" Jebel Rum/Jordania (VIII)
  • "Das Phantom der Zinne" Große Zinne-North face (IX+)
  • "Alpenliebe" Westliche Zinne-North face (IX)
  • "Ötzi trifft Yeti" Kleine Zinne (VIII+)
  • Mixedroute "Pustertaler Halbgefrorenes" Rein in Taufers (VIII-/WI6/M4)
  • "Beer drinking“ Prags, South Tyrol (WI5/M9)
  • "Rondo Veneziano" Torre Venezia Civetta South face (IX-)
  • "Ei des Kolumbus“ Marmolada South face (VII/A3)
  • "Moulin Rouge“ Rotwand/Rosengarten with Partner Oswald Celva (IX-)
  • „Donnafugata“ Torre Trieste (7a, A2 bzw. 8a)
  • "Kein Rest von Sehnsucht" Civetta NW face(VIII-)
  • "Zombi" Cima del Lago Fanis (VII+)
  • "Misch ich fix", Höhlensteintal (M10+)

Christoph Hainz (born 23 July 1962) in Mühlbach is an Italian climber, mountaineering allrounder, professional mountain guide and author from the German-speaking province of South Tyrol. Hainz has made over 2000 mountain tours, climbing routes up to grade X/X+, ice climbing and mixed routes up to grade M13 and numerous alpine routes up until grade 10. In the Dolomites alone he opened about 40 first ascents up to difficulty level X. His special achievements include the fastest solo ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia in 9 hours and the first ascent of Shivling North Pillar together with Hans Kammerlander in India in 1993. In 1997, he climbed the Superdirettissima in the north face of the Grosse Zinne alone in 8 hours.

Early life and education

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Hainz was born in Mühlbach, North of Brixen, South Tyrol. He grew up with his uncle and aunt on a farm at 1500m above sea level. After finishing school he became a car mechanic. He started climbing at age 20, because he did not have any free time before.[1]

Career

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It was not until 1990, that he became a certified mountain guide and skiing instructor and ski mountaineering guide. Since 1998 he has been a member of the instructing team of the South Tyrolean mountain and ski guides. In 1999 he became a sports climbing and canyoning teacher.[1]

His special achievements include the fastest solo ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia in 9 hours and in 1993 the first ascent of Shivling North Pillar in Indiatogether with Hans Kammerlander. In 1997, he climbed the Superdirettissimain the north face of the Grosse Zinne alone in 8 hours.[1] As a sport climber he has been in numerous countries such as Australia, the US, South America, Canada, Switzerland, France, Spain, Italy, Jordan, Morocco, South Africa, Austria and Slovenia.

In 2007, he opened a new route in the Eiger Northface together with Roger Schäli which they named Magic Mushroom, with 21 rope lengths, 600 climbing meters at rating 7c.

In the Dolomites alone, Hainz opened about 40 first ascents up to difficulty level X. He won seven consecutive national and international mountain guide championships.[1] In 2008, Reinhold Messner described him as an alpinist of a never-before-seen kind.[2]

In the summer of 2014 he climbed the Comici route of the Grosse Zinne Northface in only 48 minutes.[3]

Because of his special relationship to the Drei Zinnen he has been nicknamed "the Zinnenmann", also the name of a documentary.[4]

In 2016, servusTV filmed him and Axel Naglich ski climb the Ortler and ski down the Minnigerode channel, a 50 degree piste, while Speedriding pilots Armin and Guido Senoner flew along.[5]

In 2018 and 2019, he led German president Frank-Walter Steinmeier and Lukas Meindl onto various peaks like Schwarzenstein (3365 meter) and Floitenspitz.[6]

Personal life

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Hainz was married from 1995 to 2011 and lived in Reischach (Riscone), near Brixen South Tyrol. He has a daughter. Since 2011, he has been living in Nasen, also South Tyrol.[1] He lost his son Jonas in a climbing accident on October 29, 2022.[7]

In media

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  • SALEWA (2 March 2011). Christoph Hainz - SALEWA alpineXtrem Mitglied. Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • Jonas Hainz (4 November 2014). Christoph Hainz "Der Zinnenmann" - Offizieller Trailer. Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • filmfeststanton (28 August 2015). Interview mit Christoph Hainz - Filmfest St.Anton 2015. Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • Christoph Hainz am Ortler (By Bergwelten). 15 November 2016. Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via www.facebook.com. {{cite AV media}}: Text "Facebook" ignored (help)
  • Christoph Hainz (19 May 2015). Neuer Trailer - Der Zinnenmann. Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • Fuchsdesign (2 May 2018). Christoph Hainz - Erstbegehung "Sogni d'oro". Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • Christoph Hainz (22 October 2019). Grohmann-Hainz Führe 2019. Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • Dolomites UNESCO (29 July 2019). La nuova via alla Grande di Lavaredo (in Italian). Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • SALEWA (12 July 2021). Route "Grohmann-Hainz". Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube. {{cite AV media}}: Text "Christoph Hainz" ignored (help)
  • marlenesleben (26 April 2020). Drei Zinnen (2.999 m) - Wahrzeichen der Dolomiten - Tourenbericht mit Christoph Hainz. Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • alessandro beber (23 August 2021). DoloMitiche - Christoph Hainz - Skyline alle Tre Cime di Lavaredo (in Italian). Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.
  • Il Sole 24 ORE (19 September 2022). Tale padre, tale figlio: "free solo" sulle Dolomiti (Grosse Zinne Nordwand) (in Italian). Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.{{cite AV media}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  • Earth Stories Deutschland (9 July 2024). Doku: Extremklettern auf Südtirols majestätischen Gipfeln. 45:40 minutes in. Retrieved 12 October 2024 – via YouTube.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d e "Ausstieg in die Senkrechte – ein Portrait von Christoph Hainz". Bergsteigen.com (in German). 14 August 2008. Retrieved 11 October 2024.
  2. ^ Stefan Wolf (15 December 2008). "Einmal Himmel und zurück". Süddeutsche zeitung (in German). Retrieved 11 October 2024.
  3. ^ "Zinnenmann Christoph Hainz". Bergsteigen.com (in German). Retrieved 11 October 2024.
  4. ^ "Der Zinnenmann". Die Neue Südtiroler Tageszeitung (in German). 9 November 2015. Retrieved 11 October 2024.
  5. ^ "Making-Of: Der Ortler – Südtirols König der Berge". Bergwelten (in German). 11 November 2016. Retrieved 12 October 2024.
  6. ^ "Frank-Walter Steinmeier auf Bergtour mit Christoph Hainz". Alpin (in German). 31 July 2019. Retrieved 12 October 2024.
  7. ^ "Bergunfall: Kletterer Jonas Hainz tödlich abgestürzt". Alpin.de (in German). 31 October 2022. Retrieved 11 October 2024.

Further reading

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  • Christoph Hainz (2005). Hainz, Christoph (ed.). Ausstieg in die Senkrechte: bergsteigen extrem. München: blv. ISBN 978-3-405-16988-6.
  • Hainz, Christoph; Hemmleb, Jochen; Steinmeier, Frank-Walter; Engel, Thomas; Schwienbacher, Gerda; Kammerlander, Hans (2019). Nur der Berg ist mein Boss: das Leben des Südtiroler Extremkletterers und Bergführers. Innsbruck Wien: Tyrolia-Verlag. ISBN 978-3-7022-3753-0. Foreword by von Frank-Walter Steinmeier, and Hans Kammerlander
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