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2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup
OrganiserIFSC
Edition35th
Events
18
  • 6 Boulder
    6 Lead
    6 Speed
Locations
Dates21 April – 24 September 2023
Lead
MenJapan Sorato Anraku
WomenAustria Jessica Pilz
TeamJapan Japan
Boulder
MenJapan Sorato Anraku
WomenUnited States Natalia Grossman
TeamJapan Japan
Speed
MenIndonesia Veddriq Leonardo
WomenPoland Natalia Kałucka
TeamChina China
← 2022
2024 →

The 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup is the 35th edition of the international competition climbing series organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), held in 12 locations. There are 18 events: six bouldering, six lead, and six speed events. The series begins on 23 April in Hachioji, Japan with the first bouldering competitions of the season, and concluded on 24 September in Wujiang, China.

The top 3 in each competition receive medals, and the overall winners are awarded trophies. At the end of the season, an overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each individual event.

Scheduling

[edit]

The IFSC announced the 2023 World Cup schedule in September 2022.[1]

Overview

[edit]
No. Location D G Gold Silver Bronze
1 Japan Hachioji
21–23 April
B M France Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 7 7 Belgium Hannes Van Duysen 1T3z 2 11 France Paul Jenft 1T3z 3 3
W United States Brooke Raboutou 3T3z 6 6 Germany Hannah Meul 1T3z 1 8 Japan Anon Matsufuji 0T3z 0 7
2 South Korea Seoul
28–30 April[Note 1][2]
B M France Mejdi Schalck 2T3z 2 7 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 2T3z 6 10 South Korea Chon Jong-won 2T2z 2 2
W Japan Miho Nonaka 2T3z 20 22 France Oriane Bertone 2T2z 4 3 United States Brooke Raboutou 2T2z 10 7
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 5.01 China Long Jinbao 5.12 China Wang Xinshang 5.11
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.25 Poland Natalia Kałucka 6.67 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 6.60
3 Indonesia Jakarta
6–7 May
S M Indonesia Raharjati Nursamsa 5.11 China Wang Xinshang 5.14 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 6.34
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.43 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 6.52 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 6.64
4 United States Salt Lake City
19–21 May
B M Japan Tomoa Narasaki 4T4z 6 5 Japan Sorato Anraku 4T4z 12 6 United Kingdom Toby Roberts 3T4z 8 10
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4z 5 5 France Oriane Bertone 2T4z 3 6 United States Brooke Raboutou 2T3z 4 10
S M Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 4.95 China Wu Peng 6.99 Indonesia Kiromal Katibin 4.98
W Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 6.43 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 6.82 China Deng Lijuan 6.77
5 Czech Republic Prague
2–4 June
B M South Korea Lee Dohyun 4T4z 5 5 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 4T4z 13 9 France Mejdi Schalck 3T4z 3 6
W France Oriane Bertone 3T4z 4 5 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3T4z 6 7 France Flavy Cohaut 2T3z 6 12
6 Italy Brixen
9–11 June
B M United Kingdom Toby Roberts 3T4z 10 7 South Korea Lee Dohyun 2T4z 3 4 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2T4z 5 6
W United States Natalia Grossman 4T4z 12 12 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 3T4z 3 9 Serbia Staša Gejo 3T4z 5 6
7 Austria Innsbruck
14–18 June
B M Japan Sorato Anraku 3T3z 11 9 Japan Meichi Narasaki 3T3z 15 11 France Sam Avezou 2T2z 4 3
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4 United States Natalia Grossman 2T4z 2 11 Japan Miho Nonaka 2T4z 2 13
L M Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 44+ Germany Alexander Megos 44+ Austria Jakob Schubert 42+
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret 39+ Japan Ai Mori 33+ Austria Jessica Pilz 25+
8 Switzerland Villars
30 June–2 July
L M Austria Jakob Schubert 42+ Czech Republic Adam Ondra 41+ Germany Alexander Megos 40
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP Austria Jessica Pilz 43+ United States Brooke Raboutou 43
S M China Long Jianguo 5.26 China Zhang Liang FALL Japan Ryo Omasa 5.30
W Poland Natalia Kałucka 6.55 United States Emma Hunt 8.37 China Deng Lijuan 6.49
9 France Chamonix
7–9 July
L M United Kingdom Toby Roberts TOP France Sam Avezou 50 Japan Sorato Anraku 48
W South Korea Jain Kim 43+ Japan Nonoha Kume 38+ France Hélène Janicot 38+
S M Indonesia Rahmad Adi Mulyono 5.01 Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin 5.05 Indonesia Raharjati Nursamsa 5.323
W Indonesia Rajiah Sallsabillah 6.97 France Victoire Andrier 9.59 Indonesia Nurul Iqamah 7.16
10 France Briançon
14–15 July
L M Japan Sorato Anraku TOP Japan Taisei Homma 49+ Japan Satone Yoshida 49+
W Slovenia Vita Lukan 46 Czech Republic Eliska Adamovska 44+ France Manon Hily 44+
11 Slovenia Koper
8–9 September
L M Japan Sorato Anraku TOP United States Jesse Grupper 42+ Spain Alberto Ginés López 23
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP Japan Ai Mori 44+ Slovenia Vita Lukan 40+
12 China Wujiang
22–24 September
L M Japan Sorato Anraku 39+ Japan Shion Omata 30+ Japan Taisei Homma 26+
W Japan Ai Mori 36+ Austria Jessica Pilz 31+ Japan Natsuki Tanii 26+
S M China Wu Peng 5.05 China Jingjie Huang 5.10 Japan Ryo Omasa 5.11
W China Deng Lijuan 6.58 Poland Natalia Kałucka 6.69 China Di Niu 6.89

[1]

  1. ^ Seoul bouldering results based on semifinal standings after finals were canceled due to rain delay.

Bouldering

[edit]

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1 Japan Sorato Anraku 3350 5. 545 (29. 52*) 2. 805 7. 455 5. 545 1. 1000
2 South Korea Lee Dohyun 3130 7. 455 4. 610 (39. 15.3*) 1. 1000 2. 805 14. 260
3 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 3000 10. 350 2. 805 1. 1000 10. 350 6. 495 (11. 325)
4 United Kingdom Toby Roberts 2710 (25. 89.5*) 8. 415 3. 690 15. 240 1. 1000 9. 365*
5 France Mejdi Schalck 2690 1. 1000 1. 1000 (-) 3. 690 - -
6 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2335 13. 280 12. 300 (16. 220) 4. 610 3. 690 7. 455
7 South Korea Chon Jong-won 2275 6. 495 3. 690 14. 260 (16. 220) 16. 220 4. 610
8 Belgium Hannes Van Duysen 2140 2. 805 13. 280 6. 495 13. 280 (-) 13. 280
9 Japan Meichi Narasaki 1945 8. 415 (85. 0) 25. 89.5* 35. 25.5* 4. 610 2. 805
10 Germany Yannick Flohé 1750.5 11. 325 7. 455 (-) 5. 545 8. 415 45. 10.5*

Women

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2023:[3]

Rank Name Points Hachioji Seoul Salt Lake City Prague Brixen Innsbruck
1 United States Natalia Grossman 3527.5 8. 397.5* 11. 325 1. 1000 (-) 1. 1000 2. 805
2 Japan Miho Nonaka 3005 11. 325 1. 1000 9. 380 4. 610 (-) 3. 690
3 United States Brooke Raboutou 2990 1. 1000 3. 690 3. 690 (-) - 4. 610
4 France Oriane Bertone 2649.5 31. 39.5* 2. 805 2. 805 1. 1000 (-) -
5 Israel Ayala Kerem 1995 4. 610 6. 495 (-) 13. 280 4. 610 -
6 Serbia Staša Gejo 1893 27. 68* 10. 350 (-) 5. 545 3. 690 15. 240
7 Australia Oceana Mackenzie 1880 (35. 25.5*) 13. 280 12. 300 7. 455 5. 545 12. 300
8 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 1805 (-) - - 2. 805 - 1. 1000
9 United States Anastasia Sanders 1765 37. 20* 5. 545 4. 610 (-) 15. 240 10. 350
10 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 1744.5 14. 250 (29. 52*) 25. 89.5* 8. 415 2. 805 18. 185

* = Joint place with another athlete

Speed

[edit]

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2023:[4]

Rank Name Points Seoul Jakarta Salt Lake City Villars Chamonix Wujiang
1 Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo 3470 1. 1000 5. 545 1. 1000 5. 545 9. 380
2 China Wu Peng 3405 6. 495 4. 610 2. 805 6. 495 7. 455 1. 1000
3 United States Samuel Watson 2550 9. 380 6. 495 4. 610 4. 610 10. 350 7. 455
4 China Long Jianguo 2510 4. 610 34. 30 5. 545 1. 1000 11. 325 40. 15
5 Indonesia Rahmad Adi Mulyono 2460 10. 350 9. 380 9. 380 10. 350 1. 1000
6 China Wang Xinshang 2355 3. 690 2. 805 15. 240 15. 240 24. 105 9.380
7 China Long Jinbao 2255 2. 805 12. 300 7. 455 13. 280 8. 415
8 China Zhang Liang 2003 67. 3 10. 350 12. 300 2. 805 71. 1.57 5. 545
9 South Korea Shin Eun-cheol 1955 5. 545 8. 415 48. 9 21. 145 15. 240 4. 610
10 Japan Ryo Omasa 1814 21. 145 43. 12 17. 205 3. 690 26. 284 3. 690

Women

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2023:[4]

Rank Name Points Seoul Jakarta Salt Lake City Villars Chamonix Wujiang
1 Poland Natalia Kałucka 3700 2. 805 6. 495 5. 545 1. 1000 5. 545 2. 805
2 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław 3545 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 5. 545
3 China Deng Lijuan 3535 5. 545 4. 610 3. 690 3. 690 1. 1000
4 Indonesia Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi 3225 3. 690 2. 805 2. 805 5. 545 9. 380
5 Indonesia Rajiah Sallsabillah 3015 6. 495 8. 415 4. 610 6. 495 1. 1000
6 Poland Aleksandra Kałucka 2785 4. 610 3. 690 9. 380 9. 380 6. 495 4. 610
7 United States Emma Hunt 2665 7. 455 7. 455 6. 495 2. 805 7. 455
8 China Niu Di 2290 9. 380 5. 545 11. 325 10. 350 13. 280 3. 690
9 Indonesia Nurul Iqamah 2125 18. 185 9. 380 7. 455 8. 415 3. 690
10 China Zhang Shaoqin 1870 10. 350 20. 155 26. 84 12. 300 4. 610 7. 455

* = Joint place with another athlete

Lead

[edit]

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[5]

Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang
1 Japan Sorato Anraku 4300 4. 610 (6. 495) 3. 690 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000
2 Germany Alexander Megos 2650 2. 805 3. 690 4. 610 - 5. 545 -
3 Japan Taisei Homma 2455 9. 380 13. 280 12. 300 2. 805 (13. 270*) 3. 690
4 Japan Shion Omata 2445 12. 300 8. 415 9. 380 5. 545 (15. 240) 2. 805
5 United Kingdom Toby Roberts 2440 16. 220 4. 610 1. 1000 - 4. 610 -
6 Japan Satone Yoshida 2080 6. 495 12. 300 11. 325 3. 690 13. 270* (14. 260)
7 Japan Yoshiyuki Ogata 2065 (18. 185) 17. 205 14. 260 4. 610 9. 380 4. 610
8 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 1940 1. 1000 18. 185 - - 12. 300 7. 455
9 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 1720 7. 455 21. 145 (26. 84) 6. 495 11. 325 12. 300
10 Austria Jakob Schubert 1690 3. 690 1. 1000 - - - -

Women

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023:[5]

Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang
1 Austria Jessica Pilz 3235 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 - 11. 325 2. 805
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 3000 1. 1000 1. 1000 - - 1. 1000 -
3 Slovenia Vita Lukan 2725 (17. 205) 13. 280 7. 455 1. 1000 3. 690 12. 300
4 Japan Ai Mori 2610 2. 805 - - - 2. 805 1. 1000
5 Japan Natsuki Tanii 2525 (26. 84) 6. 495 9. 380 8. 415 5. 545 3. 690
6 South Korea Jain Kim 2485 11. 325 7. 455 1. 1000 14. 250 (20. 155) 7. 455
7 South Korea Seo Chae-hyun 2430 5. 545 4. 610 8. 415 14. 250 4. 610 -
8 Slovenia Mia Krampl 2275 6. 495 5. 545 6. 495 - 8. 415 11. 325
9 Japan Nonoha Kume 2090 - 16. 220 2. 805 4. 610 7. 455 -
10 United Kingdom Molly Thompson-Smith 1885 9. 380 9. 380 12. 300 5. 545 13. 280 -

* = Joint place with another athlete

Season podium table

[edit]
RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Japan (JPN)2125
2 Poland (POL)1102
3 United States (USA)1023
4 Austria (AUT)1001
 Indonesia (INA)1001
6 China (CHN)0112
 Slovenia (SLO)0112
8 Germany (GER)0101
 South Korea (KOR)0101
Totals (9 entries)66618

Medal table

[edit]
RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Japan (JPN)78924
2 Indonesia (INA)52512
3 Slovenia (SLO)5117
4 Poland (POL)4217
5 China (CHN)35412
6 France (FRA)34613
7 United States (USA)3339
8 South Korea (KOR)2215
9 Great Britain (GBR)2013
10 Austria (AUT)1225
11 Switzerland (SUI)1001
12 Czech Republic (CZE)0303
13 Germany (GER)0213
14 Belgium (BEL)0101
 Kazakhstan (KAZ)0101
16 Serbia (SRB)0011
 Spain (ESP)0011
Totals (17 entries)363636108

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b "IFSC CALENDAR 2023: THE START OF A NEW OLYMPIC QUALIFICATION PATH" (Press release). International Federation of Sport Climbing. 12 September 2023. Retrieved 15 September 2022.
  2. ^ Pardy, Aaron (30 April 2023). "Japan and France Take Gold at Boulder World Cup in Seoul". Gripped. Retrieved 1 May 2023.
  3. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Boulder". Retrieved 2023-04-24.
  4. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Speed". Retrieved 2023-05-07.
  5. ^ a b "IFSC Climbing World Cup 2023 Lead". Retrieved 2023-06-24.