Talk:Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics

Climbing Mid‑importance

	Climbing portal This article is within the scope of WikiProject Climbing, a collaborative effort to improve the coverage of Climbing on Wikipedia. If you would like to participate, please visit the project page, where you can join the discussion and see a list of open tasks.ClimbingWikipedia:WikiProject ClimbingTemplate:WikiProject ClimbingClimbing articles
Mid	This article has been rated as Mid-importance on the importance scale.

Olympics

	Olympic Games portal This article is within the scope of WikiProject Olympics, a collaborative effort to improve the coverage of Olympics on Wikipedia. If you would like to participate, please visit the project page, where you can join the discussion and see a list of open tasks.OlympicsWikipedia:WikiProject OlympicsTemplate:WikiProject OlympicsOlympics articles
???	This article has not yet received a rating on the project's importance scale.

Tip: Anchors are case-sensitive in most browsers.

This article links to one or more target anchors that no longer exist.

[[Speed climbing#Speed Climbing World Records and Champions|WR]] The anchor (#Speed Climbing World Records and Champions) is no longer available because it was deleted by a user before.

Please help fix the broken anchors. You can remove this template after fixing the problems. | Reporting errors

Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics

Moved from User talk:Primefac

Re technical information: It seems worthy of inclusion as it is of interest to readers who have a high interest in climbing (which is likely do be more than the population average of people reading this specific page). A simple mentioning of the climbing grade helps put the difficulty of the climb into context and is far from WP:TMI. Mn1548 (talk) 16:36, 18 August 2024 (UTC)[reply]

I would be okay with a simple sentence or two stating that there is no official grading w.r.t. competition climbs but fall into general ranges, since as far as I've seen every route setter that gets asked the question either deflects or declines to give hard numbers. Whichever way we decide to go, the table was rather excessive. Primefac (talk) 15:32, 21 August 2024 (UTC)[reply]

Fair enough, the table is alot of information. Being honest to don't know enough about how well understood other climbing grades are to properly decide which should / shouldn't be listed. I was brought up on UK tech and V grades, so for me taking the information from the source I found to give a sentence along the lines of "In Olympic Sports Climbing lead routes are generally between 8c and 9a" is fine for me, but could be completely alien to someone else. Boulder I wouldn't believe would be much of an issue as V grade, I think, are fairly common world wide. But understing of UK Tech lead grades isn't even fully understood within UK climbing as UK Trad is used solely by alot of climbers. Mn1548 (talk) 21:22, 21 August 2024 (UTC)[reply]

I agree with Primefac, a sentence describing the general ranges that route setters target is useful - properly sourced - but these are only estimates and not exact.

For lead climbing, the grades the sources use are French grades (not British grades), which is the most common with US grades and we have a template in Wikipedia to convert to them - E.g. when they say "8c to 9a" that is 8c (5.14b) to 9a (5.14d). French grade 9a (5.14d) has only ever been onsighted once in history, and competition lead climbing is onsighting, so 9a is naturally a ceiling.

Similarly for bouldering, we have a template that gives the French font and American V-grade (the two dominant boulder grades) - E.g. when they say "V10 to V14" that is V10 (7C+) to V14 (8B+). Aszx5000 (talk) 00:28, 26 August 2024 (UTC)[reply]

So in general we would only use French and American grades for describing climbing routes then? In that case, a simple sentence using these templates should be sufficient. Mn1548 (talk) 13:34, 26 August 2024 (UTC)[reply]

Yes, and also realize that the sources are quoting French grades when discussing lead climbing, and not British grades, if that makes sense. I do think it is a very interesting fact about the competitions (one I have looked up myself) and definitely worth recording on the article. thanks again. Aszx5000 (talk) 15:45, 26 August 2024 (UTC)[reply]

Great, thanks, I shall add that to the article, probably as a subsection of competition format but can be moved accordingly if needed. TBH I should have probably realised they weren't British grades when attempting to convert them came up as errors, that an the shear level of difficulty that a 9a+ (British) would be. Mn1548 (talk) 16:25, 26 August 2024 (UTC)[reply]

I have made the same mistake myself :) thanks for your very helpful contributions Aszx5000 (talk) 16:29, 26 August 2024 (UTC)[reply]